Traveling- it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller.
- Ibn Battuta
July 11, 2024
We spent our first full day in Michigan exploring the lighthouses in Mackinaw City and nearby Cheboygan. It was a warm and sunny day as we made our wa to our first stop: the Old Mackinac Point Lighthouse, located in Michilimackinac State Park just east of the Mackinac Bridge.
Construction of Old Mackinac Point Lighthouse started in 1892. The lighthouse was decommisioned as an active aid to navigation in 1957 following the construction of the Mackinac Bridge. It opened as a museum in 1972, was closed again for restoration in 1999, and reopened again in 2004. Over the years a reconstructed storehouse, oil house and privy were added to the grounds.The 1907 fog signal building is currently used as a gift shop. Visitors to the lighthouse can climb to the top of the 58 foot tower where you can see wonderful views of the Straits of Mackinac and the Mackinac Bridge. In addition, there are occasional demonstrations of the station's fog signal, an event we were happy to attend.
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 | | Old Mackinac Point Lighthouse |
 | | Old Mackinac Point Lighthouse |
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After touring the lighthouse, climbing the tower and hearing the fog signal, we made our way down to the beach to take more photos of the bridge.
 | | Mackinac Bridge |
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 | | Under the bridge |
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Our next stop was to visit the McGulpin Point Lighthouse, located nearby on the shore of Lake Michigan. The lighthouse was built in 1869 and has a 38 foot tall tower. It was discontinued in 1906 and is no longer an active aid to navigation. After visiting the lighthouse and climbing the tower we followed the Discovery Trail down to the shore of Lake Michigan with its view of the Mackinaw Bridge and were delighted to see across the water at a great distance the 1873 St. Helena Island Lighthouse. Established in 1873, the lighthouse sits on a 266 acre uninhabited island two miles offshore of Michigan's Upper Peninsula. Unfortunately we didn't bring our tripod with us, so we weren't able to get a clear photo of the lighthouse.
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 | | McGulpin Point Lighthouse |
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 | | Lake Michigan & Mackinac Bridge |
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 | | McGulpin Point Lighthouse |
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From there we drove to Wilderness State Park to check out the campground located there. We had hoped to stay there while in Mackinaw City, but unfortunately couldn't get a reservation. It's a very popular campground with beautiful views across Lake Michigan. It's important to note here that the majority of Michigan State Parks charge a $11/day entrance fee to out-of-state vehicles, just to enter the parks. We chose to spend $40 for the annual pass because we knew we were going to be visiting a lot of the state parks during our stay in Michigan. It was definitely the right choice for us.
Next we headed east to Cheboygan, a short drive from Mackinaw City. Our first stop in Cheboygan was to see the Cheboygan Crib Light. The light was established in 1884 on a crib on Lake Huron at the mouth of the Cheboygan River. The 25 foot tall cast iron tower was later relocated to the foot of a pier in Gordon Turner Park. We visited the light and walked out the pier, enjoying the view back to the shore.
 | | Cheboygan Crib Light |
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 | | Cheboygan Crib Light |
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Driving further east along the waterfront in Cheboygan, we stopped to see the 1880 Cheboygan River Front Range Lighthouse. This unusual looking lighthouse serves as the front light in a range. The original wooden rear light was replaced by a modern 75 foot tall steel skeletal tower in 1900. Unfortunately the lighthouse wasn't open during our visit, due to a lack of volunteers.
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| Cheboygan River Front Range Lighthouse |
Traveling further east along the shore of Lake Huron, we stopped at Cheboygan State Park and hiked the 1.5 mile trail to see the ruins of the Cheboygan Point Lighthouse. The first lighthouse on Cheboygan Point was built in 1851, but had to be replaced in 1859 due to the rising waters of Lake Huron. Sadly, the lighthouse was dismantled in 1930 after the nearby Fourteen Foot Shoal Lighthouse was built, leaving only the ruins of the foundation.
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 | | Foundation of Cheboygan Point Light |
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Just a few yards further along the trail we reached the shore of Lake Huron with views of the Fourteen Foot Shoal Lighthouse, built in 1929. The concrete and steel lighthouse on a concrete crib warns mariners of that fact that the waters surrounding it are only 14 feet deep. Today, solar panels are used to power the active aid to navigation.
 | | Fourteen Foot Shoal Ligthouse |
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 | | Poe Reef Lighthouse |
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Looking further east we could also see the Poe Reef Light, built in 1929 on a concrete crib. The lighthouse lies at the east end of the south channel between Bois Blanc Island and the mainland, marking a significant threat to shipping. The distinctive black and white daymark made the light easy to spot in the distance.
We ended our day of lighthouse visits with a very brisk walk back through the woods to the parking lot. Lesson learned: don't underestimate the determination of biting flies and mosquitoes to make a meal of you along the trails in Cheboygan State Park! We definitely advise using heavy duty spray, or better yet, wearing hat, long-sleeved shirts and slacks!
July 12, 2024
On Friday July, 12 we rose early so we could take the 8:30 a.m. Shepler's Ferry to Mackinac Island. The shuttle bus picked us and our bicycles up at 8:00, and we were off to check off one of the main highlights of our trip.
It was bright and sunny as we made our way past the Mackinac Bridge and across the Straits of Mackinac for the 15 minute ride to Mackinac Island.
 | | Leaving Mackinaw City |
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 | | Approaching Mackinac Island |
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Mackinac Island is well known for its storybook downtown full of Victorian buildings, its lack of chain motels, restaurants and big-box stores, and the fact that there are no cars on the island. You can explore the island by bicycle, horse and carriage, or on foot. And of course there is the famous Grand Hotel.
Upon arrival on the south end of the island, we started by driving our bicycles in a counter-clockwise direction around the perimeter, a distance of about 8 miles. Arriving early was a good plan because the streets were not yet crowded and we easily maneuvered around the many horse carriages (and their deposits on the road) as we made our way through the business district, passing Marquette Park and some large hotels on our way.
 | | Main Street |
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 | | Main Street |
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It was a bit foggy on the east side of the island. It kept us cool, but we were disappointed with the lack of views across the water. Our first stop was at Dwightwood Spring. The natural springs here are the most famous of those that dot the island, but aren't recommended for drinking.
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| Dwightwood Spring |
Just a few yards away we found the stairs leading up to Arch Rock. Arch Rock rises 146 feet above the water and has a span of 50 feet at its widest point. The breccia rock arch was formed over thousands of years by erosion from wind and water eroding the soft rock below it. Unfortunately the fog hid the usually beautiful view through the arch, so we quickly took some photos and vowed to return later in the day after the fog cleared.
 | | Arch Rock |
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 | | Arch Rock |
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After returning to our bikes we continued up the fog shrouded eastern shore. As we turned the corner at Point Aux Pins, the halfway point in our journey, the skies cleared and we had beautiful views across the water. Our next stop was British Landing. British Landing is where British soldiers landed during their attack and capture of Fort Mackinac during the War of 1812. We stopped to enjoy the views out across the water and then wandered up British Landing Road a short way where we found a small refreshment stand.
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 | | British Landing |
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 | | Refreshment stand at British Landing |
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Continuing southeast we enjoyed hearing the sound of the waves crashing on the rocky shore. Rows of large boulders were placed here to protect the road from storm-tossed waves. Next we stopped at Devil's Kitchen, a prehistoric gouged-out breccia rock formation.
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 | | Devil's Kitchen |
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Before returning to the business district we stopped to admire the view of Round Island and the two lighthouses that mark the island and the passage between it and Mackinac Island.
Upon returning to Main Street and its businesses, we parked our bikes in a small park and walked along the sidewalks, stopping to sample fudge on our way to find some lunch. We purchased some ready-made sandwiches from a small grocer in town, then found a picnic table in Marquette Park. Home of the Father Jacques Marquette statue, soldiers once used this area as a garden for Fort Mackinac, perched high above it. It's a great place to people watch and enjoy views of the fort and boats on the water.
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| Marquette Park & Fort Mackinac |
Mackinac Island is well know for its fudge shops - there are 13 on the island! We had a hard time choosing where to purchase our fudge as there were so many shops and so many delicious flavors to choose from. We finally settled on JoAnn's along Main Street. We can highly recommend the Raspberry Truffle, Orange Truffle and Chocolate Peanutbutter! After making our purchases in the shops we returned to our bikes and headed up the hill to the iconic Grand Hotel. The hotel first opened its doors in 1887 as a summer retreat. The National Historic Landmark is most famous for its porch, spanning 660 feet and making it the world's longest porch.
Although the hotel is a bit out of our price range, we did pay the "small" fee to stroll through the parlor, peek into some shops and the main dining room and enjoy the views from the porch out over Mackinac Island. After visiting the Cupola Bar on the fifth floor, we made our way back down to Sadie's Ice Cream Parlor where we enjoyed some delicious treats.
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 | | Sadie's Ice Cream Parlor |
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Needing to work off the ice cream, we decided to explore more of the upper reaches of the island with our bikes and continued up past the hotel onto the highest part of the island, passing by the island cemeteries and arriving at Skull Cave, which was once used as a burial place by the Ojibwa people.
 | | The Fort Cemetery |
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 | | Skull Cave |
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Next we climbed up some stairs to Fort Holmes where we met an elderly resident of the island who was happy to share some stories of island life with us before we continued on to our last two stops. We had Sugar Loaf Rock to ourselves. The 75 foot tall breccia mass is the largest of Mackinac Island's limestone stacks. It's believed that a huge lake once covered all of Mackinac Island except Sugar Loaf. When the water receded, the stack was left standing.
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 | | Fort Holmes |
 | | Fort Holmes |
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 | | Sugar Loaf Rock |
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Finally, with beautfully clear skies, we made our way back to Arch Rock, this time from the top of the island where we had to wait a bit in the line that typically forms before getting our photos of the rock and the water below.
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| Arch Rock |
We followed the road past Fort Mackinac and some huge summer homes, passing the Governor's Residence, then down a very steep hill and back onto main street. The streets were crowded with bicycles, carriages and people, so we quickly parked our bikes and made our way to Mary's Bistro for a relaxing waterfront dinner.
After dinner, we couldn't resist taking one more ride out the east side of the island to take photos of Sanilac Arch, Arch Rock from below, and Gitchie Manitou, another rock formation.
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 | | Gitchie Manitou |
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 | | Sanilac Arch |
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 | | Arch Rock |
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We turned around at this point and rode our bikes back to the Mission Point Resort so we could relax in Adirondack chairs on its great lawn stretching out to the beach. After taking some photos of the 1947 Round Island Passage Light and the 1895 Round Island Lighthouse, we headed back into town to catch the ferry back to Mackinaw City.
 | | The lawn at Mission Point |
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 | | Round Island Lighthouse |
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 | | Round Island Passage Light |
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We had a wonderful time on Mackinac Island and were pleasantly surprised at all we were able to cover in one day. Amazingly, we arrived back in our campground by 6:00 p.m. with plenty of time to relax before turning in for the night. If you're ever in the area of northern Michigan, we recommend making the trip out to Mackinac Island. Just be prepared for large crowds, lots of bicycles (you can rent them on the island), horses, and dodging their deposits!
If you want to see the full video of our Mackinac Island adventure, click here for our YouTube video!
* All photos and videos are the property of the owners unless otherwise noted. *
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