Wednesday, March 26, 2025

Exploring Michigan's Upper Peninsula (Part 14) - Lighthouses of the Eastern U.P.

Lighthouses are not just stone, brick, metal and glass. There’s a human story at every lighthouse. 
- Elinor DeWire

In July 2024 we spent three weeks traveling throughout Michigan's Upper Peninsula (U.P.). During our final week we stayed at a campground on the eastern end of the U.P. in St. Ignace. During our travels to other sites we made stops to see some lighthouses that were in the area. Some of the lighthouses were included in previous posts. The rest are included here.

Crisp Point Lighthouse

A tall conical lighthouse tower with a lantern on top, sticking out above the trees.
Crisp Point Lighthouse

We topped off a day of visiting the Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum and Tahquamenon Falls (see our previous blog entries), with a visit to Crisp Point Lighthouse on the shore of Lake Superior between Whitefish Point to the east and Grand Marais to the west. This was one adventure where the journey was every bit as memorable as the destination.

Crisp Point Lighthouse actually lies about 13 miles west of Whitefish Point as the crow flies. But seeing as we are not crows and had to rely on roads to get to the remote location, we had to drive 37 miles from Paradise, Michigan. While it would appear that reaching it would be an easy 45-minute drive - it's definitely not. 

You have to follow a maze of dirt, gravel and sand forest roads used by logging trucks, ATVs and side-by-sides for the last 18 miles of the route.  We have all had occasion to ride on a wash boarded road, but this one went on for 10-15 miles. It definitely takes longer than you think. It took us about an 1.25 hours to get there in our 4 wheel drive truck, rocking, rolling and rattling the whole way! We were grateful the road was mostly dry - it would have been easy to get stuck on a wet road, especially during the last 5-6 miles where the road was extremely narrow, hilly and with very few places to pull to the side when someone approached from the opposite direction. We have to admit, there were times during the journey when we considered turning around, but we persevered and finally made it to the lighthouse reservation. In case you think we are exaggerating, the road is so famously bad that you can purchase a sticker at the Crisp Point gift shop celebrating the fact that you survived the drive! And we had to do it all over again on the return! It was certainly a journey we won't soon forget!

Once we finally reached the end of the road we were amazed to see some fairly large campers parked here and there between the trees. We learned later that the Crisp Point Light Historical Society allows volunteers to camp at the point. The society maintains the grounds, operates the gift shop and opens the lighthouse to climbers. There were a lot of other people who braved the drive out to the point. The beach there was clearly a popular spot.

After parking, we followed a boardwalk along the dunes to the lighthouse. The tower, constructed in 1903, is 59 feet tall and has a small attached service building. Inside the service building we viewed some maritime artifacts displayed there before climbing the 62 metal steps to the top of the tower. The tower actively serves as a private aid to navigation from May 1 to November 1 each year and displays a 300 mm lens in the lantern room.

A display panel with photos and a history of Crisp Point Lighthouse.

We climbed out on the lantern gallery and were treated to spectacular 360 degree views of Lake Superior, miles of beaches and the surrounding forest. We were amazed to be able to clearly see the bottom of the lake through the Caribbean blue water. 

View from high above a sandy beach on a large lake with trees on the left.
View west from the lantern gallery

View from high above of a large lake with large rocks and sandy beach stretching out along a tree-lined shore.
View to the east from the lantern gallery

Was the nerve-wracking journey out to the lighthouse worth it? Absolutely! And with memories of the views fresh in our minds, the journey back didn't seem quite as bad.

A tall conical light tower with lantern room on top and a small one story workroom attached to the side.
Crisp Point Lighthouse

Click here to view a YouTube video of our visit to Crisp Point Lighthouse.

Six Mile Point Rear Range Light

Six Mile Point Rear Range Light is an unusual-looking white steel light that was once used as the rear range light in the channel between lakes Superior and Huron on the St. Marys River. The light was built in 1907 and moved to the grounds of the Les Cheneaux Maritime Museum in Cedarville sometime after being replaced with a modern light in 1933.  

A tall, narrow tubular tower with a flared bottom and a rectangular box on the top from which a light was displayed.
Six Mile Point Rear Range Light

We didn't expect the Maritime Museum to be open when we arrived because it has limited hours. However, it had been opened for a school group planning to visit and we were invited to take a look inside before the students arrived. It was an unexpected treasure, filled with antique boats, motors and other maritime exhibits. Unfortunately, we didn't take any photos, but in retrospect, we wish we had. If you're ever in the area and have an interest in antique boats, stop in to see this free museum. You won't be disappointed!

Six Mile Point Front Range Light

The Six Mile Point Front Range Light is similar to the Rear Range Light, above, but much shorter. Built in 1907, it served as the front range light in the channel between lakes Superior and Huron on the St. Marys River. Mariners needed to line up the rear light with the front light in order to find the safe passage in the channel. When the front light was replaced in 1933 it was moved to the grounds of the Detour Passage Historical Museum, within walking distance of the Drummond Island Ferry in the village of Detour. There were also some other navigational aides on display on the grounds.

A small lantern on a metal pole and a short metal square pyramidal skeleton tower with tiny lantern, both sitting next to a large row boat and anchor.
Aides to Navigation on display

A short conical iron tower with a rectangular box on one side at the top.
Six Mile Point Front Range Light

Pipe Island Light

Pipe Island Light is a privately owned lighthouse on Pipe Island in St. Marys River, Michigan. We were able to view it at a distance across the water from the village of Detour at the easternmost tip of the U.P. The lighthouse was lit in 1888 and was used to aid ships heading from Lake Huron into St. Mary's River and on toward the Soo Locks. The tower was also used along with the Frying Pan Light, once located 2 miles away, to form a range for entering and leaving the DeTour Passage.

An octagonal pyramidal tower with a gallery around the top and a tall rectangular striped daymark sign  on top.
Pipe Island Light

Originally 32-1/2 feet tall, the height of the octagonal buff brick tower was increased in 1920 by removing its lantern room and installing a light from a 15 foot skeleton tower mounted on top. At some point the island was sold into private ownership. Currently the tower is operational as a daymark.

Detour Reef Lighthouse

The village of Detour lies at the easternmost point of the Michigan's Upper Peninsula. After visiting the previous two lights, we decided to take a chance on possibly finding a place to view the DeTour Reef Lighthouse from land. The lighthouse is best viewed by boat, but after doing some exploring on Google Maps, we thought we just might be able to see it by parking at the Detour Peninsula Nature Preserve and following a trail out toward where we thought the lighthouse might be located out in the water. It should be mentioned that we have been known to go above and beyond in our quest to photograph a lighthouse!

After following the trail for some distance we found a small opening in the trees that led to the rocky shore. We picked our way over the rocks and boulders until we rounded a bend, and there, a mile across the water, was the lighthouse. Success!

A rectangular concrete pier with a two story square concrete building in the center. On top of the building is a tall square tower with a lantern on top. The entire structure is sitting in water.
Detour Reef Lighthouse

DeTour Reef Lighthouse marks the southern entrance of the DeTour Passage between the eastern tip of the U.P. and Drummond Island. First lit in 1931, the 83-foot tall Classic-Revival style lighthouse sits on a concrete crib and marks a dangerous reef. The light helps guide ship traffic between Lake Huron and Lake Superior via the St. Marys River.

The lighthouse was automated in 1974 and declared excess property by the U.S. Coastguard in 1997. In 1998 the DeTour Reef Light Preservation Society was formed by civic leaders from Detour Villange and Drummond Island. The non-profit society completed major restoration of the structure in 2004 and has offered guided tours and an overnight keepers program since 2005.

Point Iroquois Light Station

A display board with photos and a brief history of Point Iroquois Lightstation.

The Point Iroquois Light Station is located in the Hiawatha National Forest at the western end of the St. Marys River. It marks the beginning of the passage between Lake Superior and the other Great Lakes as navigators head east to the Soo Locks in Sault Ste Marie.

Point Iroquois derives its name from the Iroquois warriors who were massacred at the point in 1662 by the Ojibwa.

The first wooden light tower and keeper's dwelling were built in 1855. The tower was lit for the first time in 1857, just two years after the opening of the Soo Locks. In 1870 the structures were both replaced by the brick buildings that continue to stand today. The tower stands 65-feet tall. The light was discontinued in 1963, after being replaced by an automatic light in the channel off of Gros Cap, Ontario. The tower's 4th order Fresnel lens was shipped to the Smithsonian Institute in Washington, D.C. and the lighthouse was declared excess property by the U.S. Coastguard. The U.S. Forest Service was awarded the property in 1965. The lighthouse was later restored and a museum opened in the keeper's dwelling. 

A large two story building with a one story addition on the front and the back, and a tall conical tower above it on the far side.
Point Iroquois Light Station
A multi-gabled large two story building with a tall conical tower topped by a lantern attached by a one storage passage.
Point Iroquois Light Station from the beach.

A tall conical tower with lantern attached by a one story section to a large two story dwelling.
Point Iroquois Light Station

A tree shaded wooden bench sitting on a boardwalk overlooking the water.
Lake Superior View

The museum and tower are open to the public at limited times. Unfortunately, it wasn't open at the time of our visit due to a lack of volunteers. Instead we roamed the grounds and followed a trail down to the shore where we enjoyed some beautiful views out over the water and back toward the lighthouse.

Click here for a short YouTube video of our visit to Point Iroquois Light Station.

Frying Pan Island Lighthouse

Frying Pan Island is a tiny 3.42 acre isle 2 miles north of the mouth of the St. Marys River, just offshore from DeTour Village. In 1882 an 18-foot circular tower made of steel plates first exhibited a red light using a 6th order Fresnel lens. The light was replaced by a structure on a coal tower in 1935, and abandoned in 1937. A light atop a pole marked the island in 2016. In 1988 the U.S. Coastguard moved the abandoned 1882 tower from the island to its base in Sault Ste. Marie where it was restored before being placed on display outside their headquarters.

A short conical shaped tower with a gallery surrounding the lantern on top. It's sitting behind a fence next to the wall of a building.
Frying Pan Island Lighthouse

We were able to get a decent photo of the small tower from atop Sault Ste. Marie's "Tower of History" when we visited the area.

* All photos and videos are the property of the owners unless otherwise noted. *

Sunday, March 9, 2025

Exploring Michigan's Upper Peninsula (Part 13) - St. Ignace

“Traveling is a way to discover new cultures and ways of life, to learn about the world and ourselves,
and to create lasting memories.”
– Unknown

July 27 to August 2, 2024

A mural painted on a wall of Native Americans and Moro Bay.
Mural in St. Ignace

Our final week on Michigan's U.P. was spent camping just north of the mighty Mackinac Bridge in St. Ignace. St. Ignace is considered the entrance to the U.P. Although we passed through it on our way northwest on the peninsula two weeks earlier, we chose to return at the back end of our Michigan trip to camp there and explore the area. 

St. Ignace, named after the founder of the Society of Jesus, St. Ignatius Loyola, is the third oldest continuously inhabited city in the U.S., and is one of Michigan's oldest cities. It's the county seat of Mackinac County and in 2020 had a population of only 2,306 citizens. As a result, the city is uncrowded and has a relaxed atmosphere.

The city is also one of the embarkation points for ferries to Mackinac Island. The downtown business district stretches along the shoreline of Lake Huron on Moran Bay. 

Huron Boardwalk

On a cloudy morning, we took a leisurely stroll along the mile-long Huron Boardwalk, an informative walkway along the St. Ignace waterfront. From the boardwalk we took in views of the beaches, the harbor, and the beauty of Lake Huron. Along the pathway we found interpretive panels marking historically significant locations and displays.

The signs describe the history, lifestyles and industries of the Straits of Mackinac. Displays along the route include a windlass from the wreckage of a ship sunk off the coast in 1891, a rudder from a wooden steamer sunk in 1894, and an original Mackinaw 1899 boat built in the St. Ignace area.

A stone breakwater behind which lies a small harbor filled with boats.
St. Ignace Harbor

A sign explaining the significance of mooring dolphins. Behind the sign 4 mooring dolphins can be seen in the distance.
Mooring Dolphins in the distance
 

Chief Wawatam Park & Wawatam Lighthouse

Known for the Wawatam Lighthouse at the end of its pier, Chief Wawatam Park features a splash pad, a storybook trail, a fishing platform and views out over the lake to Mackinac Island.

The Wawatam Lighthouse is named after the Chief Wawatam railroad ferry, which used the same pier it stands on from 1911 to the mid 1980s. The lighthouse started out as the Monroe, Michigan Welcome Center in 1998. In 2004 it was restored and moved to its present location. The light is 52 feet tall and overlooks Lake Huron and Mackinac Island. In August 2006 it was lit as an official aid to navigation. The light remains lit in the winter to guide snowmobiles across the frozen lake.

View of an octagonal-pyramidal lighthouse at the end of a grassy pier, with a motorboat approaching on the right.
Chief Wawatam Park & Lighthouse

View of a railroad bell on a pole next to a section of railroad track. There is a tall octagonal-pyramidal lighthouse in the rear and water beyond.
Railroad Bell & Lighthouse

A boardwalk with wildflowers growing on the right side. The boardwalk leads to a tall octagonal pyramidal lighthouse with a lantern on top.
Wawatam Lighthouse


To view our YouTube video of Chief Wawatam Park and the lighthouse, click here.

Marquette Mission Park & Museum of Ojibwa Culture


St. Ignace was a Native American settlement long before the arrival of the French and Father Jacques Marquette. The area is rich in Native American culture and history. The Museum of Ojibwa Culture, located in St. Ignace at Marquette Mission Park, is a National Historic Landmark. The site has indoor and outdoor exhibits interpreting the culture and lifestyle of the Ojibwa Natives, and the history of the 17th century Huron Indian Village. The museum is located on the grounds of the French Jesuit Mission and the grounds are the final resting place of Father Jacques Marquette. The museum also features birch bark canoes, interpretive panels, videos of stories by tribal elders, and a gift shop with authentic Native American handcrafted items. Admission is by donation.

View of a circular garden with a native American long house on the opposite side of the viewer.

We toured the outdoor grounds which feature a beautiful sculpture garden depicting some common Anishinaabe (Ojibwa) scenes with life-sized metal figures. 



A circular brick pathway in the shape of a medicine wheel, surrounding a flower garden.
Medicine Wheel Garden
A metal sculpture representing a native American fisherman, surrounded by a small garden.
Fisherman

An interpretive sign explaining the role of women in the Ojibwe culture.

Metal sculpture of a medicine man in a seated position on the ground with a garden surrounding it.
Medicine Man

Sign describing a Huron longhouse.

An interpretive sign explaining the significance of a medicine wheel in the Ojibwe culture.

An interpretive sign importance fishing played in the lives of the native Americans.

Metal sculpture of a Native American woman surrounded by a small garden.
Woman


A tall and long house sheathed in bark with an arched ceiling and an open doorway at one end.
Huron Longhouse

 

A view through the doorway of a Huron longhouse at a circle of chairs with a fire ring in the center.
Inside the longhouse

Along one side of the Mission building is a garden with signs and small sculptures representing the seven clans around which Ojibwa culture was organized.

On the opposite side of the building we found a fountain and the burial site of Father Jacques Marquette, who founded St. Ignace in 1671. Father Marquette was a French explorer and priest who established a mission there.

View of a park-like setting with a stone path leading to a circular stone pool with a water fountain in the center and flowers surrounding the pathway around it. There's a tall pillar monument beyond the fountain surrounded by trees, and a small gazebo with informative panels on all sides placed to the right of the fountain.
Marquette Mission Park

A long one story building with seven arched windows on its side and a short tower with a cross on it at the right end of a peaked roof.
St. Ignace Mission/Museum of Ojibwa Culture

Historical Marker: "Grave of Father Marquette. In memorium. Erected by the citizens of St. Ignace in 1882, this monument marks the grave of Rev. Father James Marquette, S.J. who died on the 18th day of May 1675, at the age of 38 and was buried here in 1677. R.I.P.

A historical site marker briefly explaining the history of St. Ignace Mission.
 
A stone circular pathway surround by baskets of flowers leading to a stone obelisk monument.
Father Marquette burial site

A historical marker providing a brief history of the Huron Indians in St. Ignace.


To view our YouTube video of the grounds at the Marquette Mission Park & Museum of Ojibwa Culture, click here.

Bridge View Park

Bridge View Park was created by the Mackinac Bridge Authority. It lies just west of the bridge toll plaza. The park includes an observation building, walking paths, picnic pavilions, restroom facilities, access to the water and lots of paved parking for vehicles of all sizes, including RVs and buses.

View of a tall suspension bridge looming out of the fog.
Mackinac Bridge
View of a park bench at the edge of a large lake.
View from the park

Closeup view of a tall suspension bridge looming out of the fog.
Mackinac Bridge
Bronze sign stating: When the Mackinac Bridge was constructed, a bell was placed at the base of each tower to guide approaching vessels during poor visibility. In March of 1961, a fog horn was installed. The bells have been silent ever since. On April 24, 2002, the South Tower Fog Bell was removed from the bridge to be displayed at the Bridge View Park.
History of the South Tower Bell

A large copper bell hanging from a stand will flowers planted beneath it.
South Tower Bell

We rode our bicycles from the campground to the park one day to explore it. We learned about the building of the bridge from informational panels located inside the observation building.

Castle Rock

Large metal sign for Castle Rock

Castle Rock is a gift shop and tourist attraction located just off of US Route 75 a little north of St. Ignace. The rock rises almost 200 feet above the surrounding area with excellent views out over Lake Huron, views of Mackinac Island, and also the surrounding countryside. It's considered one of the oldest lookout points near St. Ignace and was known as "Pontiac's Lookout" by the Ojibwa natives. 

A large spire of rock sticking out above the trees. There is an American Flag perched on the top of the rock.

Castle Rock is a sea stack. During the last Ice Age, the water from what was the glacial Lake Algonquin gradually declined, eroding the land surrounding the limestone breccia rock. Castle Rock resisted the erosion leaving us with what we see today. Geologically, the rock is similar to other rock features on Mackinac Island, such as Arch Rock and Sugar Loaf. Take a look at our previous post about Mackinac Island to see photos of those rock formations.

Opened as a tourist attraction in 1929, Castle Rock is a popular low-cost tourist trap - only $1 to climb to the top of the rock. The view from the top out over the lake and down into St. Ignace was worth the cost. But if you go there, be prepared to climb a lot of stairs up to the rock!

View from high above of a highway with a forest on the right side of the road and a large lake on the left side.
View from the top of Castle Rock

View from very high above of a large lake, a forest and a highway below.
View from the top of Castle Rock

We couldn't resist stopping to take photos of the huge statues of Paul Bunyan and his sidekick, Babe the Blue Ox, before returning to our car.

A large column of rock towering above the treetops and huge statues of an ox and lumberjack at the foot of the trees.
Castle Rock towering above Paul Bunyan and Babe the Blue Ox.

To see a short YouTube video of our visit to Castle Rock, click here.

* All photos and videos are the property of the owners unless otherwise noted. *