Exploring Michigan's Upper Peninsula (Part 10) - Kayaking, Hiking & Biking

"Life is short, make every day an adventure."

- Unknown 

Our favorite outdoor activities include hiking, biking and kayaking. Fortunately for us, Michigan's Keweenaw Peninsula afforded us a multitude of ways to pursue those activities. During our weeklong stay there in July, we took advantage of as many of our favorite activities as we could when we weren't tracking down lighthouses, waterfalls, and other sites of interest to us.

Kayaking on Torch Lake

During our week on the peninsula, we were conveniently camped on the shore of  2700-acre Torch Lake. At its northern end, the lake is fed by Traprock River. The lake is 6 miles long and 1-1/2 miles wide with a maximum depth of 120 feet. The south end of the lake drains into Torch Bay, which in turn drains into Portage Lake.

Torch Lake has a troubled past. It was the site of multiple mining operations and the copper processing industry through the 1900s. As a result, contamination from stamp sands, chemicals and heavy metals left the lake so badly polluted it was determined the technology needed to clean the lake just hadn't been invented yet. The lake was declared a Superfund site in 1986 and work to clean it began in 1998. Fortunately progress as been made. Swimming is permitted from clean beaches or by diving off of boats and limited consumption of fish is permitted.

During our stay we saw people swimming on the campground beach and from the adjacent community park. Motorboats glided up and down the lake, perhaps on their way to Lake Superior via Portage Lake and the Keweenaw Waterway.

Although we were concerned about possible exposure to contamination during our stay, we had read a lot on the internet and the National Park Service's website about the lake and felt we were safe kayaking on it as long as we didn't walk on the bottom of the lake. At 120 feet deep, that wasn't going to be a problem!

We kayaked on the lake late in the afternoon on two occasions, putting in at the campground's dock. The first time we followed the shore northward and up the Traprock River. The second time we paddled south along the shore toward Portage Lake. We enjoyed exploring the lake, especially the northern end where it was shallow and peaceful as we were the only kayakers up that far. 

Traprock River

View of a building in a private community on the shore of Torch Lake. It had a flashing light in the cupola that we could see from our campground.

Hiking on Mount Baldy

On July 22, 2024, after spending the morning exploring some waterfalls and lighthouses on the western shore of the Keweenaw Peninsula, we drove to the trailhead for a hike to the top of Mount Baldy, previously known as Lookout Mountain. Mount Baldy earned its new name because of the way high winds have shaped the vegetation and terrain at the highest elevations. Bedrock balds are extremely rare in Michigan. Balds are usually found at high elevations on a mountain summit where there is a lot of grass and shrubs with few or no trees. Mount Baldy is the largest and least disturbed bald remaining in Michigan.

We found the trailhead at the Helmut and Candis Stern Preserve, located just outside of Eagle Harbor. The trail to the summit of Mount Baldy, which towers 730 feet above Lake Superior, is a steady, uphill climb of about 3 miles. The trail starts out with a sand dune to climb, but the trail quickly turned into dirt and rock. We were delighted to find some ripe thimbleberries along the trail and we couldn't resist stopping to snack on some along our way. We bought a jar of Thimbleberry Jam while in Copper Harbor and were told by the shop owner what the plant looked like. The berries grow primarily in western states and the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. We also enjoyed the many wildflowers along the path. 

Thimbleberries Harebell Musk Mallow	Daisies Orange Hawkweed Peavine
Spotted Knapweed

We followed the trail across a creek and past a metal gate blocking ATVs from going any further. About 3/4 of the way up we came to a clearing that almost fooled us into thinking we had reached the top. 

We continued on the trail until we found the marker proving we had made it to the top of the 1,335 foot mountain.  The spectacular panoramic views of Lake Superior, Lake Bailey and the Keweenaw Peninsula, made the climb well worth it.

Mount Baldy summit marker View of Eagle Harbor from Mount Baldy

View of Lake Bailey & Lake Superior from the top of Mount Baldy Closeup view of Eagle Harbor Lighthouse

After finishing our hike and returning to our truck, we decided to ride along the Brockway Mountain Drive. Billed as the highest above sea-level drive between the Rockies and the Alleghenies, the drive starts near Eagle Harbor and winds 9-1/2 miles into Copper Harbor. We were disappointed to find the road was a bit rough and much in need of repair. Although it slowed us down, we enjoyed stopping at several scenic overlooks along the way where we were treated to more views of Lake Superior and the Keweenaw Peninsula. We could only imagine what these views must look like in the fall!

View of Copper Harbor & Lake Fanny Hooe

View from the overlook.   Copper Harbor Lighthouse

Hancock - Lake Linden Trail

On July 23, 2024 we went for a bicycle ride starting at Porvoo Park in Hancock, and heading north past the aerial lift bridge on a trail toward Lake Linden. 

Aerial Lift Bridge

Although listed as a multi-use trail, the mostly dirt and gravel pathway was a bit rough in spots because it is mostly used by ORVs and mountain bikers. For the most part, the trail was flat with a few small ups and downs. But we did encounter quite a few muddy potholes that we had to maneuver around. After leaving the waterfront in Hancock, the trail follows along the path of a former railway line on its way to Dollar Bay. Along the way we passed by some buildings that are part of the historic Quincy Mine complex. 

Quincy Smelting Works

After crossing over Rt. 26 above Dollar Bay, we followed another trail as it climbed up through the forest, passing through Tamarack and on to Lake Linden. Here the trail was again mostly level with a few ups and downs on the mostly dirt road, but once again we found ourselves frequently playing dodgem with numerous muddy potholes along the route. Discounting the road obstacles, we encountered almost no other people on the trail and for the most part enjoyed the quiet 10 mile ride through the forest before turning around and heading back to Hancock. It was definitely not the typical rail-trail ride, but we did enjoy the scenery - not so much the mud holes and large stones on the trail near the mine complex.

Click here to view a video of our bike ride.

Houghton Waterfront & Houghton-Chassell Trails

We decided to finish up our week on the Keweenaw Peninsula with a 20.5 mile bicycle ride on July 26, 2024. The Houghton Waterfront and Houghton-Chassell trails run along the Houghton side of the Keweenaw Waterway and proved to be a much smoother ride than our previous ride on the other side. The trails join together to form a 10.25 mile pathway on the former Houghton Chassell and Southwestern Railway. The paved Houghton Waterfront portion of the trail begins at Houghton Waterfront Park. It follows along the waterway past a historic train depot, through the campus of Michigan Tech, and past some waterfront parks. We could see the Quincy Mine complex across the waterway as well as some abandoned mining equipment left behind in the water. 

Looking back at the Aerial Lift bridge Quincy Mine complex

View from the trail Abandoned mining equipment

View from the trail

After the path crosses over the Pilgrim River and passes the Nara Nature Park, it changes into a gravel surface and becomes the Houghton-Chassell Trail. This part of the path is very scenic as it passes by homes and cottages along the Portage Lake shoreline. We followed the trail through Chassell until the trail came to an abrupt end, and after turning around returned to the Nara Nature Park so we could explore it. 

View of the village of Chassell

The Nara Nature Park is a 100 acre nature park located at the east end of the Houghton Waterfront Trail. We parked our bikes and walked down onto the elevated wooden boardwalk of the Nara Nature Trail which runs along both banks of the Pilgrim River. It winds through wetlands with beautiful views out over the water.

Looking back at the bike trail crossing over the river. The Pilgrim River empties into Portage Lake

Click here to view a video of our bike ride.

After returning to our truck we found a place along the waterfront to park and eat our lunch. We had worked up quite an appetite and considering Roy's Pasties and Bakery was within sight of where we parked, we decided to treat ourselves to some sweets. We had a hard time choosing from the selection and must say, they were some of the best baked goods we had on our entire trip!

* All photos and videos are the property of the owners unless otherwise noted. *

Exploring Michigan's Upper Peninsula (Part 9) - Lighthouses of the Western U.P.

"I can think of no other edifice constructed by man as altruistic as a lighthouse. They were built only to serve."- George Bernard Shaw

In July 2024 we spent three weeks traveling throughout Michigan's Upper Peninsula (U.P.). During our second week we stayed at a campground on the Keweenaw Peninsula. Although we spent a great deal of time exploring various sites in the area, we also stopped during our travels to see a bunch of lighthouses along the way. Lighthouses have long been a shared interest of ours. Although we no longer plan our travels around them, we don't miss an opportunity to visit them if we find them along our way.

Mendota/Bete Grise Lighthouse

On July 21, 2024 we drove north on the Keweenaw Peninsula heading to Copper Harbor. On our way we drove to Lac La Belle and Bete Grise, where we found the Mendota Lighthouse. 

Also, known as the Bete Grise Lighthouse, it was built in 1895 to mark Laclabelle Harbor. The 42-foot-tall tower is attached to a steep-gabled keeper's dwelling. The light was discontinued in 1956 and became a private residence in 1996. The owner restored the lighthouse and dwelling, found and reinstalled the original Fresnel lens, and the light was relit in 1998 as an private aid to navigation. Because the grounds are privately owned, we had to view the lighthouse from across the water, but what a lovely, peaceful setting!

Mendota/Bete Grise Lighthouse

Eagle River Lighthouse

Our plan for July 22, 2024 was to visit as many lighthouses and waterfalls as we could on our way to hike Mount Baldy and Brockway Mountain. Our first lighthouse of the day was the Eagle River Lighthouse, located on the south bend of the Eagle River. The current lighthouse was built in 1874 with a 24-foot-tall square brick tower attached to a small dwelling. The lighthouse was discontinued in 1908 and was sold as a private residence. Currently it serves as a holiday rental.

Unfortunately our view of the lighthouse from a nearby lane was partially obstructed by trees, but better photos can be found in the location's Vrbo page.

Eagle River Lighthouse

Eagle Harbor Lighthouse

Eagle Harbor Lighthouse is located at the west end of Eagle Harbor on the Lake Superior coast. The current brick lighthouse was built in 1871 and is now part of the Keweenaw County Historical Society's Light Station Museum Complex. The complex includes the lighthouse, a Maritime Museum in the old fog signal building, the Keweenaw History Museum in the old U.S. Coast Guard Station garage, and the Commercial Fishing Museum in one of the assistant keeper's dwellings.

The lighthouse itself is a red brick structure with a 44-foot-tall octagonal tower rising up from one corner of the building. It's original 4th order Fresnel lens is on display in the building while a modern optic continues to shine from the tower.

Eagle Harbor Lighthouse

Eagle Harbor Lighthouse

We wandered around the rooms inside of the lighthouse before exploring the grounds. To watch a video of the lighthouse, click here.

Eagle Harbor Range Lights

July 22, 2024

Range lights were established at Eagle Harbor to guide ships past a reef and safely into the harbor. Built in 1877, the range lights were located on the southern side of the harbor. The rear light was shone from a rectangular tower on the lake-facing gable of a 1-1/2 story keeper's dwelling. The front light was exhibited from a windown in a 24-foot-tall wooden tower located on the shore. The range was discontinued in 1912 and sold to a private owner who moved the rear range lighthouse to another location along the shore of the harbor.

We were able to get a good photo of the rear range lighthouse from the grounds of the Eagle Harbor Lighthouse during our visit there.

Eagle Harbor Rear Range Lighthouse

Keweenaw Waterway Upper Entrance Lighthouse

July 23, 2024

We drove out to the peninsula's McLain State Park on a blustery day to walk on the rocky beach looking for agates (we didn't find any) and to see the Keweenaw Waterway Upper Entrance Lighthouse. This light is located at the end of the breakwall at the state park, 9 miles north of Hancock. It marks the entrance to the Portage River, a canal which crosses the peninsula and provides a shortcut for mariners traveling to and from the Keweenaw Bay. The 50-foot square modern steel tower was built in 1950 and remains an active aid to navigation. It's not your typical lighthouse, but we were able to tick another Michigan lighthouse off of our list.

Keweenaw Waterway Upper Entrance Light

Ontonagon Lighthouse

July 24, 2024

During a drive south of the Keweenaw Peninsula to see some waterfalls we also stopped to see the Ontonagon Lighthouse, built in 1866. One of the oldest lighthouses in Michigan, the 1-1/2 story rectangular cream brick building is the second lighthouse on the site. The structure was built on a high above-ground basement to protect the living areas from floods.  It's square light tower is 39 feet from the ground to the focal point and has a polygonal lantern room with an iron gallery. The light was discontinued in 1963 when a new light and foghorn were installed at the end of a nearby pier. The lighthouse was officially closed in January 1964 when it was leased to the last keeper and his wife as a residence. The light was removed from the tower and is now housed at the Ontonagon County Historical Society Museum. The lighthouse was officially transferred to the Historical Society in 2003 and tours of the lighthouse are now available to the public. 

Ontonagon Lighthouse

Ontonagon Lighthouse

Ontonagon West Pierhead Light

July 24, 2024

The Ontonagon River empties into southern Lake Superior where a bar formed, preventing ships from using the river as a harbor. It was believed that if the ships couldn't enter the harbor, the harbor would need to be extended out into the lake. As a result, two piers were built entirely of wood in 1851. 

However the wooden piers were no match for the ferocious Lake Superior storms. After the Soo Canal locks were finished in 1855 opening Lake Superior to the lower lakes, two 900-foot piers were built by the federal government. 

In 1875 while work on the piers was underway, an open framework light was placed near the outer end of the west pier. Later, when the pier was extended, the light was moved further out into the lake. In December of 1899, this first light was washed away in a storm.

The light was replaced in 1900 with a 20-foot-tall square, pyramidal open framework tower with an attached watchroom and a cast iron lantern.

Ontonagon West Pierhead Light

Ontonagon West Pierhead Light

Sand Point (Baraga) Lighthouse

July 24, 2024

The Sand Point Light Station, located on the west side of Keweenaw Bay in the Ojibwa Campground and Recreation Area in Baraga, was first lit in 1878. The 36.5-foot square brick tower is located on a gable end of the 1.5-story brick dwelling. The tower's 5th order Fresnel lens was replaced by an automated steel skeletal tower at the shoreline in 1922, which is still an active aid to navigation. The lighthouse is privately owned by the Keweenaw Bay Indian Community and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Sand Point (Baraga) Lighthouse

Although the lighthouse is closed to the public, we were delighted to discover a bald eagle perched in a tree on the lighthouse grounds and spent some time watching it as it looked out over the water.

Keweenaw Waterway Lower Entrance Light

July 25, 2024

The Keweenaw Waterway Lower Entrance Light, also known as the Portage Lake Lower Entry Light, is located at the southeast entrance to the Portage River from Lake Superior near the town of Jacobsville. The lighthouse, built in 1920, consists of a timber crib foundation and concrete pier, on top of which is a one-story concrete machine room topped with an octagonal 31-foot steel tower and a circular lantern. Accessed via White City Park, the pier is open for those who want to walk out to view the light, as we did, but the lighthouse itself is closed. The active aide to navigation is automated and was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 2014.

Keweenaw Waterway Lower Entrance Light	View from pier looking back toward land

Portage River (Jacobsville) Lighthouse

July 25, 2024

The Portage River (Jacobsville) Lighthouse, built in 1870, stands on a bluff overlooking the Keweenaw Bay near Jacobsville on the Keweenaw Peninsula. The light guided ships to the lower entrance of the Keweenaw Waterway. The light was discontinued after the new Keweenaw Waterway Lower Light was built on a pier in 1920. The lighthouse was transferred into private ownership in 1958. The current owners are working to restore the lighthouse to its 1869 style.

The keeper's cottage was added to over the years, but was originally a two-story brick building with 8 rooms and a kitchen. The 51-foot tower was made from local sandstone and was topped by a 10-sided cast-iron lantern. An enclosed brick passageway allowed the keepers to move from the dwelling to the tower without having to go out into the weather.

The lighthouse is not open to the public. We drove to the end of a road leading to the lighthouse and took our photos from the parking lot outside of a fence that surrounds the property.

Portage River Lighthouse

* All photos and videos are the property of the owners unless otherwise noted. *