Tuesday, May 14, 2024

Pine Grove Furnace State Park - Camping Trip

 April 19 - 21, 2024

Time spent camping isn't time spent, it's time invested.

-Anonymous

Our first camping trip of 2024 was to the 696-acre Pine Grove Furnace State Park, near Gardners, Pennsylvania. The park is located at the northern tip of the Blue Ridge Mountains in an area known as South Mountain. It provides many outdoor recreational opportunities including two lakes, riding on the Hiker Biker Trail and hiking on one of the many trails that criss-cross the park and the surrounding Michaux State Forest. Inside the park are facilities for camping, fishing, swimming, picniking and boating. In addition, there is a nicely restored iron furnace, the Pine Grove General Store, and the Appalachian Trail Museum. There is plenty to do at this state park for people of all ages. Here's a link to Walter Zolna's YouTube video featuring Pine Grove Furnace State Park.

Charcoal Hearth Campground has 74 campsites, most of which include 30 or 50 amp electric hookups. There is one bathhouse and one restroom. There are spigots for potable water as you enter the campground, and a dump station just before you exit. The campground is pet-friendly and has a playground for children. Firewood can be purchased at the large shed across from the Camp Host where you will also find a Little Free Library.

One thing to keep in mind while visiting or camping at this State Park: there is no cell service. There is free Wifi at the General Store and we were finally able to connect when we hiked to some of the highest points in the park, but otherwise we were without service. 

Also, the General Store doesn't have much by way of supplies. It mostly serves as a resting point for Appalachian Trail thru hikers where they can accept the "half gallon challenge" of eating an entire half gallon of ice cream in celebration of arriving at the halfway point along the trail.

We only had one full day to enjoy the park and we were most interested in the hiking trails, so we decided to explore as many of them as we could. Our first night there we followed the easily traversed Campground Trail, which meanders through the trees from the campground over to the Furnace Stack Day Use Area. From there we followed the Hiker Biker Trail past Fuller Lake. This trail travels 3 miles over an old railroad bed until it reaches the back side of Laurel Lake. 

A sandy beach on a small tree-lined lake with a trail leading over a bridge on the left side.
Fuller Lake Beach & the start of the Hiker/Biker Trail
on the left.

The trail is level and has a paved or crushed limestone surface, and at the farther end broadens into a shared-use road including cars/trucks. Further along the trail we found the remains of a swimming pool built in 1934 for a Girl Scout camp that existed there from 1922-1967. 

Cement edging surrounding an abandoned swimming pool in the forest. The pool is filled to the top with dirt, weeds, and some trees at the far end.
Abandoned Girl Scout Swimming Pool

Curved metal hand bars leading down into an abandoned swimming pool in the forest. There are trees and weeds growing inside the pool.
Abandoned Girl Scout Swimming Pool

 Sign posted on a tree trunk with a photo of a 1934 Girl Scout Swimming pool, showing swimmers lined up along its sides.

We didn't complete the entire trail, but turned around where the Appalachian Trail joins it and headed back to the campground, for a total of 3.11 miles.

Wooden sign on a wooden post. There is an arrow pointing to the letter N, indicating north, along with the the words: Appalachian Trail Maine to Georgia.

Saturday morning was bright and sunny and it looked like we would have perfect hiking weather. We started out early with a 5.5 mile loop hike beginning with the Pole Steeple Trail to take in the view. We started at the Pole Steeple parking lot in the park and followed the steep trail up into Michaux State Forest. At the top is a quartzite rock outcropping where you can get wonderful views of the park and Laurel Lake below.

From there we followed the Appalachian Trail back down to the Hiker Biker Trail and followed that a short distance before branching off on the Mountain Creek Trail. This trail meanders through the forest and wetlands before ending at the Hiker Biker Trail a short distance from our starting point.

View of a stream with a long steel pedestrian bridge crossing over it and the forest rising on each side.
View from the Mountain Creek Trail
 

Looking up at the sun peeking through tall pine trees in a forest.
View from the trail

Looking across a long wooden bridge to a forest of pine trees at the other end.
View from the trail

 

View of a wide stream stretching out into a pine forest.
View from the trail

Close view of long snake slithering through the water of a rocky stream
The only snake we saw on this trip

View of a trail in a pine forest leading to a wooden bridge crossing over a wide stream
View from the trail

A wide trail leading over a wooden bridge with a stream flowing beneath it, leading into a pine forest on the other side.
View from the trail

Before driving back to the Furnace Stack Day Use Area, we stopped at the viewing area for the Laurel Lake Dam.

Three men standing in the shallow water below the high wide spillway of a dam. The forest is rising from a hillside on the left side of the dam.
The dam at Laurel Lake

After eating an early lunch under a pavilion in the day use area, we walked around the cold-blast furnace reading about its history on the signs posted along the walkway. 

A high square pyramidal stone structure with a flat top and an opening on each side to a circular brick furnace. There is a curving path leading to the structure with information signs along it and a split rail fence behind it.
Pine Grove Forge

The nearby Pine Grove General Store wasn't open yet, so we decided to do another, shorter hike to the halfway-point of the Appalachian Trail (AT), which is located just outside the park in the state forest. You can hike to the halfway point from the state park, but we decided to drive to the parking area closest to the halfway point, at the top of Michaux Road, passing by the Camp Michaux Historic Site on our way. We had visited this site on a previous camping trip in October of 2022, but we passed by it this time. The trail to the AT halfway point was a bit soggy and we had to detour around large pools of mud, but we were able to find it. The hike added another 2 miles to our total for the day.

A tall wooden pole in the forest with a square diamond shaped sign on top: Appalachian Trail Maine to Georgia. Below it are two narrow rectagular signs: South - 1090.5 Springer Mt.; North - Mt. Katahdin 1090.5
Halfway point of the Appalachian Trail

After returning to our truck, we thought we had it in us to do one more hike, so we decided to drive up Old Shippensburg Road to the parking area for Sunset Rocks. We planned to see if the trail was passable at night in case we came back at sunset. Unfortunately, the trail was very steep and rocky. There was a lot of climbing up and over boulders and working our way over deep crevices. Too tired to continue, we turned back before making it to the overlook. There's another trail leading to it that we'll have to try some other time.

A wooden sign with "Sunset Rocks" and an arrow pointing the way up a rocky trail in the forest.
Sunset Trail
Huge boulders leading up to a ridge in the forest
The path leads over & through
huge boulders

A wall of huge boulders on the left with a forested hillside on the right
Trying to find our way around the boulders

A steep, rocky trail leading up through a forest of pines past a tree trunk with a white blaze on it.
The Appalachian Trail also follows this path,
marked by white blazes

A balanced rock

A man standing next to a towering wall of boulders on the left with the forest falling down the hillside on the right.
The towering boulders

Driving back down to the state park, we stopped again at the General Store and treated ourselves to some ice cream before heading over to the Appalachian Trail Museum where we bought the new Purple Lizard Pennsylvania Recreation map highlighting recreation areas in Pennsylvania. It features rail trails & bikeways, state & national forests, state parks & campgrounds, public lakes & reservoirs, long distance hiking trails, mountain biking destinations, water trails, state game lands and ski areas. It's perfect for planning our camping trips and allows us to quickly see what sites and activities are in the area we want to explore.

We highly recommend Purple Lizard maps. The maps are highly detailed and feature trails, scenic vistas, and some of the best outdoor recreation areas in the Mid-Atlanitic region and Puerto Rico. The maps are sturdy and waterproof. We purchased our first one in 2023 for the Loyalsock Forest/Worlds End State Park area and used it extensively to find our way around the many dirt roads in that area, helping us to explore waterfalls, trails and many other sites.

Sunday morning was a bit cool, but we had time for another hike before leaving for home. We started out from the campground following the Creek Trail until it crossed over Bendersville Road into the group camping area. From there we took the Brickyard Trail over to Fuller Lake, then walked across Fuller Field to one of the trailheads for the Koppenhaver Trail. This scenic loop trail winds through a forest of tall pines and hemlocks, and partially follows along Tom's Run and Mountain Creek. Here we found more remnants of the old Girl Scout camp scattered along the trail. After completing the trail we followed the road back to the campground, completing our 4.21 mile hike.

A trail winding past a fallen tree in the forest to a wooden bridge with a man walking across it.
Along the Koppenhaver Trail

Pine trees bordering both sides of a wide stream in the forest
View from the trail

A wooden bridge with no railings crossing over a wide, clear stream in the forest.
View from the trail

We had a wonderful time at Pine Grove Furnace State Park and would definitely return. The trails are wonderful, and had we done our homework, we would have brought our bikes along to use on the Hiker/Biker Trail. All told we hiked about 17 miles over the weekend. Not bad for a couple of senior citizens!

* All photos and videos are the property of the authors except where otherwise noted. *

Friday, May 10, 2024

Shenks Ferry Wildflower Preserve & Ferncliff Wildlife & Wildflower Preserve - Day Trip

 April 7, 2024

Nature is one of the most underutilized treasures in life. It has the power to unburden hearts and reconnect to that inner place of peace.

- Dr. Janice Anderson & Kiersten Anderson

Lancaster Conservancy is an oganzation dedicated to preserving wild and forested lands and providing clean waterways in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. The organization has been working since 1969 and currently oversees 43 preserves throughout the county. If you're trying to find places where you can get outdoors and enjoy nature in southeastern Pennsylvania, the nature preserves in Lancaster County are worth considering!


Shenks Ferry, near Conestoga, Pennsylvania, is widely known for its wildflowers, especially in the spring. Birders can also expect to find over 50 species, including hawks, indigo bunting and the pileated woodpecker. 

We were looking for wildflowers when we visited on a slightly chilly day in April. Our oldest daughter and two of our granddaughters joined us as we walked along the paths above Grub Run. Our oldest granddaughter brought along her boyfriend to help balance out the ratio of males to females a little more and gave her Poppy someone to talk to about classic cars - an interest they both share! The paths in the preserve are short and easy to traverse, with only occasional slight changes in elevation. The views of the hillsides and meadows filled with color are always a treat. 



After enjoying a picnic lunch we travelled a few miles further south in Lancaster County to the Ferncliff Wildlife and Wildflower Preserve. Although this preserve is recognized as a National Natural Landmark, it has far fewer visitors than Shenks Ferry.

The trail here starts out easy and is very beautiful as it winds its way past small waterfalls emptying into Barnes Run, which traverses the length of the preserve. 

 A small waterfall tumbling down a hillside in a forest

A small cascading waterfall tumbling down a hillside in a forest.

For the more adventurous, like us, you can ford the stream, crossing to the other side and heading up the steep trail to the top where you can find views of the Susquehanna River below. And in the spring, the hillsides are filled with Virginia Bluebells and other wildflowers. 

A long stalk with a cluster of four-petaled flowers.
Cutleaf Toothcup

A cluster of tiny 5-petaled flowers pushing up through the soil and twigs.
Spring Beauty

Broad saw-toothed leaves with stalks of tiny tufted flowers poking through them.
Pachysandra

Green pointy leaved plants with tall stalks poking up holding clusters of bell-shaped flowers.
Virginia Bluebells

Although we found a greater variety of wildflowers at Shenks Ferry, I prefer Ferncliff because there are less crowds and it really gives you the feel of walking into a vast forest, even though the preserve isn't large at all.

A rocky stream with debris from fallen trees on the left side, winding through the forest.
Barnes Run
 
A narrow trail leading upwards through the forest on the opposite side of a stream blocked be fallen trees.
Trail leading upwards across the stream

A rocky stream tumbling down through the forest past a high rocky ledge. There a large tree trunk fallen diagonally across the stream in the background
Barnes Run

We had a wonderful time wandering the trails in both preserves and enjoyed being out in nature again.

* All photos and videos are the property of the authors except where otherwise noted. *

Wednesday, May 8, 2024

Cocoa Beach Florida

 March 27 to April 1, 2024  

We find after years of struggle that we do not take a trip; a trip takes us.

- John Steinbeck

Our youngest daughter invited us to join her family on a five-day trip to Cocoa Beach in Florida over the Easter school break. We generally prefer to camp and drive when we travel, but because of the short length of the trip, we decided to bite the bullet and fork up the money for airline tickets this time around. By the time of the trip, we were more than ready for it!

The house our daughter rented through AirBnb was perfect for our needs with plenty of room for us to spread out both indoors and out. The best part, we were right across the street from the beach, just a 2-3 minute walk away. Of course, that meant lots and lots of walks on the beach, not to mention soaking up the warm early spring sunshine!

A peek through palm trees and shubbery at the front of a house.

Our first night we went to the Cocoa Beach Pier to watch the the surfers and beach volleyball players.


The next morning we got up early to watch the first of the daily sunrises during our stay.

Couple silhouetted on a beach looking out over the ocean at sunrise.
Waiting for sunrise
Photo by A. Stilianos

Sun peeking up at the horizon over the ocean.
Sunrise

Sun just beginning to rise over the ocean.
Colorful sunrise

Every day we took long walks on the beach after sunrise, and enjoyed watching the seabirds and other creatures along the way.

A small brown bird with long legs and a long bill, walking along the edge of the surf
Dowitcher

A large white bird with long curving beak and long legs looking for something to eat at the surf's edge.
White Ibis

A multi-colored jellyfish sitting in sand along the ocean's shore.
Blue Bottle Jellyfish

Three large birds with long curved beaks and long legs looking for food at the surf's edge.
White Ibis

We could see the launching pads at Cape Canveral from the beach at the pier and at a greater distance from our section of beach near the house we were staying in.
A view from across the water of a low flat-roofed building and 3 pyramidal towers made of open framework.
Launch complex at Cape Canaveral.
Notice the lighthouse at the right of
the photo.

 

A view across the water of two tall pyramidal towers with a tall flat-roofed building between them and a tall rectangular open framework structure to the right of them.
Launch complex at Cape Canaveral.

As an added bonus, we were able to watch two rocket launches. The first was during the day from Kennedy Space Center, and the second we were able to watch at night from our own beach. The video our daughter took of the night launch is below, but it's much more amazing when you see it in person!
Video by A. Stilianos

Another highlight of the trip was kayaking on the Banana River where we watched an aggregation of manatees playing and two dolphins swimming by. We also found our way into a canal through the mangrove trees. Afterward we picnicked under a pavillion at the boat launch and had fun watching our granddaughter rescue a gecko from the restroom.


 Two women on a tandem kayak, exiting a tree-lined canal leading into a bay.

A couple in a tandem canoe heading into a tree-lined canal.
Photo by A. Stilianos

 A gecko on a tiled floor in a public bathroom.

One evening we went for a drive in search of a place to catch the colors of the sunset - not an easy trick when you're on the east coast!

A great blue heron sitting in the water.
Great Blue Heron

View of a boat tied a little offshore next to a palm tree with a heron standing on the shore at sunset.
Sunset
 

We had an evening flight home on our last day, so after leaving our dream beach home we played some mini-golf, had a picnic lunch in a park and explored a nature sanctuary before heading to the airport for our flight home.

A tall lighthouse on a mini-golf course with palm trees surrounding it.
Couldn't resist a photo of the lighthouse
on the mini-golf course!

Trees and shrubbery lining a path curving through a nature preserve.
Helen & Allan Cruickshank Sanctuary

A large bird of prey with a hooked bill and talons perched on a tree branch
Osprey
It was a wonderful, relaxing mini-vacation and we were sad to leave the warm temps of Florida to return to a damp and cold Pennsylvania!
A couple walking along the seashore during sunrise.

 

A couple walking further along the seashore during sunrise
 

A couple walking in the distance along the seashore at sunrise.
Above photos by A. Stilianos

* All photos and videos are the property of the authors except where otherwise noted. *